An idyllic weekend in the Var region during the off-season

We set off in mid-September to explore the Var region for a long weekend. We chose this time of year to enjoy the relative tranquility that September offers compared to July and especially August. We avoided the notorious traffic jams of the French Riviera during the summer. This allowed us to avoid the crowds and the excessively high temperatures, enabling us to fully enjoy walks without worrying about sunburn. We chose the perfect time of year because the sun was shining, the sky was blue, and the temperature was around 25 degrees Celsius—just perfect.

Day One: Visiting Toulon

Toulon is home to the second largest seaport in France and the largest in the Mediterranean. When you look at the French Riviera, Toulon stands apart from the other cities. This is why Toulon isn’t the most popular tourist destination, yet it possesses a certain charm. This city, far removed from mass tourism, is much more peaceful and is an incredible destination. Toulon can seem a bit rough around the edges at first, but its history explains this, as it’s a naval city, with a defensive and military focus, that fought for centuries against Mediterranean pirates. We recommend visiting Fort Balaguier. The city has a wealth of history to tell, as its location made Toulon the center of the French navy for over 500 years. This is evident in the magnificent architecture and the city’s numerous museums, including the D-Day Memorial, which we particularly recommend.

After this first day of walks and visits, we decided to go and have something to eat.

So, after carefully booking a table at “Les Pins Perchés,” an excellent gourmet restaurant with a sea view located on Cap Brun in Toulon, we decided to go. Just a few steps away, as we approached the restaurant, the scene was set: it was simply magnificent.

The building’s style is reminiscent of a Roman villa, as it is sprawling and single-story. It also features colonnades and a dazzling white facade. The large windows are inspired by neoclassical design.

For our meal, we opted for the “Memory of Taste, Perched Pines” menu, as it featured dishes we particularly enjoyed. How could we resist a menu that included truffles, scallops, and oysters? The meal was as delicious as the setting was beautiful; it was simply a delight.

After a few glasses of wine and a glass of champagne, and slightly tired from the day’s walks, we decided to go to the hotel.

In the evening, we explored the Hilton hotel

We chose the ”  Grand Hôtel des Sablettes Plage,” located in the town of La Seyne-sur-Mer, just ten minutes from Toulon, as our accommodation for the duration of our stay. Firstly, because we wanted a place of a certain standard: it’s a 4-star spa hotel in the Var region.  We also wanted to be able to enjoy a spa area and, of course, a sea view. So we chose a room with a sea view and, even though it was September, left the windows open to fall asleep to the sound of the waves. The welcome, the service, the view, the quality of the bedding, the breakfast, and even the spa all more than deserve their four stars. 

Day 2: Visit to Porquerolles

The next morning, we decided to leave the mainland for a mini-cruise of an hour and a quarter to the island of Porquerolles. Once again, everything was quite simple; we just had to go to the port of Toulon, to the Cronstadt quay opposite the town hall, to catch a shuttle to Porquerolles offered by “Les Bateliers de la Côte d’Azur” (The Boatmen of the French Riviera). I recommend visiting their website for more information: 

With the beautiful weather, the sea is calm, and our journey is going perfectly. We have the opportunity to admire the sky and the sea, and we understand why the region is called the French Riviera.

Porquerolles, or rather the island of Porquerolles, lives up to all its promises. With a population of only 200, it is one of the most remote and unspoiled places in France, boasting some breathtaking beaches. Porquerolles is rarely visited, as few people know of its existence and even those who do don’t always know how to get there. This coastline is certainly one of the best-kept secrets in France. The Port-Cros National Park manages the natural areas of Porquerolles Island. Following the threat of urbanization looming over the island, the French government acquired 1,000 hectares in 1971 to ensure its management with a view to protection and sustainable development.

We felt like we were outside of time and space; this island is truly magical.

For our last day, we went to St Tropez

Firstly, as a big fan of contemporary art, we were able to visit the oldest modern art museum in France, the Musée de l’Annonciade in the Old Port.

There are many contemporary artists living in Saint-Tropez, such as Ivan Hor, Marc B Denoun, and Christiane Moures. Many of them use nautical themes as their primary source of inspiration, but they also draw on the town’s pop culture, including the cult of Brigitte Bardot and the French film scene.

Saint-Tropez is famous for its beaches, and there are many. The most popular is Pampelonne Beach, which put the town first on the map of France and then the world. In the 1950s, an unknown Brigitte Bardot arrived to film a movie with her then-husband, Roger Vadim. The film wasn’t a commercial or critical success, but it brought her, and the town, into the spotlight and made the town and its iconic beach the symbol of a cool, artistic, independent, and hedonistic lifestyle. People also love Tahiti Beach and Nikki Beach in the same bay.

Even today, when we walk around the city, we can still feel that very special atmosphere, and the beaches are simply perfect.

We were able to taste local desserts and cakes with excellent macarons and, of course, a pastry which is always very popular and an institution on dinner tables in the south of France: the Tarte Tropézienne.

After this last day in Saint-Tropez, it was time to leave, because all good things must come to an end. But it’s safe to say that the French Riviera lives up to all its promises and that its reputation is well-deserved. Indeed, there are few places on earth that combine so many advantages in terms of tourism and quality of life.

A wonderful climate, a centuries-old history, and an exceptional heritage are showcased by restaurateurs, hoteliers, and all the tourism professionals who welcomed us and helped us discover a lesser-known but equally delightful side of this beautiful region. It is therefore with great pleasure that we will return at the first opportunity.

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